Saganaki is the small two-handled pan, and by extension the dishes cooked in it. In American dining rooms, the word often points straight to cheese, flame and the moment everyone at the table looks up.
The tableside flambé is a Greek-American restaurant tradition rather than an ancient ritual. That does not make it less real. Restaurant traditions also have histories, and this one turned a hot cheese course into a communal opening scene.
After the fire
The brandy burns away quickly. What remains has to work: browned cheese, salt, acidity and a texture that stays pleasantly firm while warm.
Kalimera uses halloumi with citrus honey, Chardonnay raisins and Turkish apricots. The fruit brings sweetness, but the cheese should still lead.
What to notice
- A browned surface
- A warm, springy center
- Fruit and honey that do not overwhelm the salt